Pavers

Twenty-five to fifty years for the units, and concrete and clay pavers both sit in that range. Early failures almost always trace back to the base: too thin, or never properly compacted, so the surface dips and the joints open up. Individual units can be lifted and swapped at any point in that life, which is the practical advantage over a slab.

It is optional. Sealing every two or three years holds off oil and wine staining, slows fading in full sun and makes sweeping easier. It does nothing structural. On a shaded garden path we usually say do not bother. On a driveway or a dining terrace where spills are likely, it pays for itself.

For most Westside driveways, yes. Pavers sit on a flexible base, so ground movement and root pressure show up as a slightly uneven joint rather than a crack across the whole slab, and any section can be lifted and relaid. Water drains down through the joints instead of running out to the street. Concrete is cheaper and gives a seamless finish, so it still wins where the budget is tight.

Far less than people expect. Polymeric sand hardens in the joint and blocks most germination, and sealing every few years handles the rest. What does appear pulls out of the joint rather than rooting into a base.